Harmon’s Histories: 1872 Bitterroot Valley a ‘most desirable place to reside’

Jim Harmon

Hello readers! I’m back at the old history desk after a brief absence for R&R after being sliced and diced at the hands of a fine surgeon.

Such is the fate of a baby boomer. (I’ll turn 80 in a few months.) Sometimes the maintenance and repair work on an aging body is little more than some cosmetic work or a minor fix to the old chassis; at other times, it’s removal or replacement of major parts of the engine.

I’d like to think of myself as a 1946 MG M-Type Convertible, but the reality is I’m closer to a base model 1946 Chevrolet Stylemaster. But enough of that. On to history!

I’ve lived in the Bitterroot Valley south of Missoula for much of my adult life, personally observing the many changes through the years as I commuted to my TV job in Missoula. The days of relatively light traffic on a two-lane Highway 93 with no speed limit are long gone.

But if you take the longer view, the changes have been even more remarkable.

The April 6, 1872 issue of The Pioneer, a very early version of what would eventually become The Missoulian, declared in its masthead: “Devoted to the reading material and general interests of Missoula County, Montana Territory, and the Northwest generally.”

Editor W.J. McCormick “made a trip up the Bitter Root Valley and spent nine days very pleasantly among the thrifty agriculturalists of that locality which embraces within its borders the most substantial and prosperous farmers in the territory.”

Keep in mind that the Bitterroot Valley was part of Missoula County until March 3, 1893, and the produce of that region was largely the reason Missoula has always declared itself The Garden City.

Here’s part of his account of the trip.

“Five hours ride in one of Edwards and Long’s coaches brought us to Stevensville in time for dinner, with appetite sufficiently sharpened to relish the luxuries which my host serves in a style which entitles him to the credit of knowing how to keep a hotel.

“Stevensville is handsomely situated, and there have been many substantial improvements made there during the past five months of which we may mention the building erected by Mr. J.W. Winslette, which is a frame, two stories high, about 30 by 80 feet, and very handsomely furnished in every particular.

“The lower room will be occupied by Mr. Winslette for a store and the upper (which by the way has the finest hall in the county, and one of the best in the territory) will be used by the Masonic fraternity for their meetings and for religious and political gatherings as occasion may require.

“Mr Thomas Rives is just finishing in good style a building for a billiard hall, which will be ready for use in a few days.

“There can be no doubt but that this promising town will grow and prosper just in the same ratio as the valley grows and prospers, and the valley is making more rapid progress in the way of substantial improvements than any other part of the Territory.

“Seven miles from Stevensville up the Burnt Fork is La Fontaine and Wynne's grist mill where the projected road connecting the Bitterroot Valley with Deer Lodge and vicinity is being constructed over the mountains.

“A number of hands are now at work on the road under the direction of Judge Herron, who has the contract for grading to the summit of the mountain, a distance of five and a quarter miles. The judge took the contract for $1,200 and says he is satisfied he will clear $350 on the work.”

On the west side of the river, Editor McCormick found many “thrifty, well-to-do farmers along Sweathouse Creek” as well as the “Sagebrush District” which long had been passed over by settlers as a “worthless barren waste.”

A group of families from Oregon, ignoring the “barren waste” description, began farming the area, eventually proving it to be a “very rich section of the valley.”

As he continued up the valley, McCormick found Corvallis to be a “flourishing little village surrounded by magnificent farms which were under a high state of cultivation - probably better than any other part of the valley.”

He noted that local farmers had sown their seeds “as early as March 25th and fall wheat was up two inches high by the first of April.” A few miles farther up the valley, he observed the development of some fine farms along Gird’s Creek.

“Mr. Chaffin, one of the prosperous farmers of this locality, is building and has almost completed a fine residence, which is perhaps the most expensive dwelling house in the valley. It is a frame building, two stories high, of handsome architecture and would be considered a fine building anywhere.”

The Chaffin family name is still found today in the Corvallis area - Chaffin Lane and West Chaffin Road.

“Still further on is the Skalkaho, a beautiful portion of the valley, which has been sparsely populated until last fall when a number of families from Michigan and Iowa settled there.

“They are all busily engaged building houses, fencing and plowing land, and making for themselves comfortable homes. They are a refined and intelligent people, and the Skalkaho will make one of the most desirable places to reside.

McCormick’s view of the Bitterroot as a “most desirable place to reside” is reflected in today’s explosive development in the valley and its huge population growth. Hopefully those massive changes will not diminish the valley’s “most desirable place to reside.”