‘Art of Kaitai:’ Sushi Hana welcomes old tradition in new location

Eliza Carey

(Missoula Current) The room was dead silent as the blade sliced through silver shimmering skin. A soft scraping sound echoed. A guest leaned in and whispered, “It sounds like a zipper.”

In the center of Hana’s newly reopened dining room, a 167-pound bluefin tuna lay glistening under the lights. Phones, cameras and wide eyes hovered. At the counter stood Kenta Nishimori, the restaurant's new executive chef from Osaka, Japan. He moved his hands with the confidence of muscle memory, revealing decadent deep reds and pinks beneath the shiny skin.

“I’m not nervous at all,” he said before the show. “Fish cutting is like riding a bike for me.”

Though he’s performed 20 to 30 Kaitai ceremonies in his career, this was his first in Montana. The bluefin, caught Thursday morning off the coast of Baja, Mexico, had arrived just in time for Saturday’s event.

The traditional Japanese tuna cutting performance, Kaitai, is a rare sight in the Rockies. It's all about honoring the fish in its entirety. Using long elegant knives, chefs like Nishimori demonstrate how to break down a tuna into various cuts, each with its own flavor, texture and culinary purpose. 

“Who wants to eat tuna straight off the bone?” Nishimori called out, grinning. Guests didn’t hesitate. A bowl of spoons was placed beside the fresh meat on its bone, and each guest took their turn digging into delicacy. 

Behind the bar, chefs worked steady, transforming giant slabs of the large animal into elegant dishes. Their eyes focused like lasers, scanning for each perfect cut. Lean portions for sashimi, rich marbled ones for nigiri. 

Yuriko Hagen, Hana’s owner, explained the parts of the fish. “The fattest part is called Otoro,” she said, and pointed with her knife to a freshly cut pale-pink square. “The next fattest is Chuturo,” she said as she gestured to a slightly darker cut, “and the darkest is called Akami, used for sashimi.” 

The night unfolded as a seven-course performance. First came a bluefin poke salad paired with Sauvignon Blanc. Next was tuna sashimi. Thick slabs of dark red melt-in-your-mouth meat were plated in threes, and topped with caviar for those who paid extra. The third dish was nigiri. A familiar design of pink fish draped over white rice, contrasting with wasabi green and off-white ginger.

Clare Brennan, who works at Notorious P.I.G. and lives in Florence, rushed to attend. “I saw the event ad on Instagram,” she said. “I finally got my shift covered a few hours before, ran down to Sushi Hana, knocked on the door, and begged Kenta for a ticket.” She said he allowed it, but warned her there may not be enough dessert. “I said I don’t care, I just want fish! I’m a fish gal,” she said. 

For Hana staff, the event marked a shift toward a new chapter. “This event tonight is like proof that we’re moving into more high-quality stuff,” said September Tuiono, a 19-year-old senior hostess who's worked at the restaurant for two years. Her coworker, Grace Lowery, added, “We were all so excited to see the big fish!”

Hagen said she feels her purpose is to bring and share Japanese traditions and food with the people of Missoula. The event echoed that passion by sharing something never done before in Montana, kickstarting a new chapter for the first best sushi restaurant in the last best place.